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turk
USA
3356 Posts |
 Posted - 08 Mar 2011 : 14:53:38
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It was like 2 years ago. I had to be rescued from the car just before the bridge entering Serrekunda.
Today, I was just driving from Kololi to S'kunda market. Nice roads, no bump. Not only road. They are building the channels for the water draining. It is great to see infrastructure improvements.
A few nights ago, when I turned on my laptop, the power went down. What do I do? I called the electrician. He came up within 45 minutes. The guy asked me the problem... every details. Then he explained potential problems. Oh ma god. That is unusual. I don't get this quality service too often in Gambia. He started investigating with explanation. Finally, he identified the problem but he said, it is too dark, he and his stuff can't take risk, he would come tomorrow morning. He said 9 am... Unfortunately he did not come on time. He was earlier. I was thinking, is this Gambia? Yes, it is Gambia. He charge me 250 dalasi. He fixed my power supply.
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diaspora! Too many Chiefs and Very Few Indians.
Halifa Salah: PDOIS is however realistic. It is fully aware that the Gambian voters are yet to reach a level of political consciousness that they rely on to vote on the basis of Principles, policies and programmes and practices. |
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Momodou
Denmark
11527 Posts |
Posted - 08 Mar 2011 : 15:04:02
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Thanks for the update! I am looking forward to read more from you on the ground. How much do you have to pay for the internet connection?
Don't forget to get a recipe for Toubab's "Nyebbe" (beans). |
A clear conscience fears no accusation - proverb from Sierra Leone |
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turk
USA
3356 Posts |
Posted - 08 Mar 2011 : 15:25:48
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I pay 3000 something for the USB modem plus pay as you go from gamtel. I got 2000 dalasi for 24/7 connection, while it is slow, it is ok. I can't watch youtube, can't use skype with video and I have to wait to long for the work I am doing but so far it was ok. If one is doing web surfing, email etc... That is ok.
No beans for me. In Gambia, I do not eat meat, chicken. This is a place to eat sea food. I am totally satisfied with sea food here. I even caught my own barrakuda the other day. I did not appreciate the fisherman I am renting boat asked money for it but that is ok. I am immune to bumpster behavior after years of experience.
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diaspora! Too many Chiefs and Very Few Indians.
Halifa Salah: PDOIS is however realistic. It is fully aware that the Gambian voters are yet to reach a level of political consciousness that they rely on to vote on the basis of Principles, policies and programmes and practices. |
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turk
USA
3356 Posts |
Posted - 08 Mar 2011 : 15:36:20
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Tourism:
Less tourists. In senegambia, only choosan is full with the live music from Senegal/Gambia. That is my usual spot for the nights. Bukaraboo, is also nice with another live band option. These two only full places. Other places are not doing good. I am comparing to other seasons, there are less tourists, tourism business is suffering.
There are many wealthy British men and their girl friends, wives and lovers. Many girls from other west african countries. Gambians got more sophisticated. Not many 'official Gambian prostitutes', instead, they are more like girl friends, mistress of British. That is good. It is all about 'development'.
I noticed, Gambian are doing much better economically from the last year I was there. Business is getting more sophisticated. There are more rich middle income people. Cars are getting better/newer. Five years ago, you would rarely see an new expensive cars. Now, many SUV, hammers, luxury cars, Porsche, BMW X6, Cadillac...
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diaspora! Too many Chiefs and Very Few Indians.
Halifa Salah: PDOIS is however realistic. It is fully aware that the Gambian voters are yet to reach a level of political consciousness that they rely on to vote on the basis of Principles, policies and programmes and practices. |
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toubab1020
12242 Posts |
Posted - 08 Mar 2011 : 15:43:10
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| Thanks Turk,your positive vibes are appearing, I guess you are in Chill out mode at the moment,any developments regarding the Turkish school ? |
"Simple is good" & I strongly dislike politics. You cannot defend the indefensible.
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Momodou
Denmark
11527 Posts |
Posted - 08 Mar 2011 : 16:17:51
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Hi Turk, thanks!
I like to eat a lot of fish too whenever I am there. However, I don't have to go fishing because there is always fresh fish at Bakau beach or Tanji. |
A clear conscience fears no accusation - proverb from Sierra Leone |
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turk
USA
3356 Posts |
Posted - 08 Mar 2011 : 16:21:49
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| they start full time next year. |
diaspora! Too many Chiefs and Very Few Indians.
Halifa Salah: PDOIS is however realistic. It is fully aware that the Gambian voters are yet to reach a level of political consciousness that they rely on to vote on the basis of Principles, policies and programmes and practices. |
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Janko
Gambia
1267 Posts |
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Momodou
Denmark
11527 Posts |
Posted - 08 Mar 2011 : 17:47:50
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Janko, how could I not have thought about that? I look forward to what Turk find out. |
A clear conscience fears no accusation - proverb from Sierra Leone |
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Moe
USA
2326 Posts |
Posted - 09 Mar 2011 : 07:23:13
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| Touby you are not allowed "Nyambi and Nyeebeh" on this banataba trust this , Turk knows better not to even consider getting you a recipe. Beans and Gas go together especially if the beans are stale, I know one comforter is not gonna stop the Natural gas coming from you at nite killing innocent folks....,..........Peace |
I am Jebel Musa better yet rock of Gibraltar,either or,still a stronghold and a Pillar commanding direction
The GPU wants Me Hunted Down for what I don't know ..... |
Edited by - Moe on 09 Mar 2011 07:26:24 |
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mansasulu
997 Posts |
Posted - 09 Mar 2011 : 14:35:19
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| Thanks for the update Turk |
"...Verily, in the remembrance of Allâh do hearts find rest..." Sura Al-Rad (Chapter 13, Verse 28)
...Gambian by birth, Muslim by the grace of Allah... |
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toubab1020
12242 Posts |
Posted - 09 Mar 2011 : 14:53:51
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MOE, I like beans in tapalapa with mayonese and a few drips of pepper sauce,I do not wish you any harm from Gas,try to make this and you will be safe : 
http://vimeo.com/10721913
quote:
Originally posted by Moe
Touby you are not allowed "Nyambi and Nyeebeh" on this banataba trust this , Turk knows better not to even consider getting you a recipe. Beans and Gas go together especially if the beans are stale, I know one comforter is not gonna stop the Natural gas coming from you at nite killing innocent folks....,..........Peace
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"Simple is good" & I strongly dislike politics. You cannot defend the indefensible.
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gambiabev
United Kingdom
3091 Posts |
Posted - 09 Mar 2011 : 15:02:01
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Really interested to hear your up to date up dates! Thanks.
Are Gambians interested in what is happening in Northern Africa?
I wonder what they think about it?
Turk you talk about the middle class developing, which is good as previously many of these people would have left the country.
How are they earning their money? Are they educated and working? Are they running a business ('self made')? Is it family money inherited? Or are they Presidents people living off money given to them to keep them sweet?
How are ordinary Gambians coping at the moment? I worry about the increases in prices of foods. Are Gambian's going hungry? Or are they coping?
Do you know about employment figures? What does it feel like on the ground? More employment or less? Youth unemployment has been a trigger in Egypt and Tunisia. Perhaps the President needs to prioritise giving the youth something meaningful to do if he wants to hold on to his position?
Really interested to hear from you there. Please keep posting.
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toubab1020
12242 Posts |
Posted - 09 Mar 2011 : 15:35:52
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| Nice, Gambiabev,an on the ground factual answer from turk would be good,all that most of us have to go on are stories appearing in the papers and those from both sides of politics who have a vested interest,who make postings here. |
"Simple is good" & I strongly dislike politics. You cannot defend the indefensible.
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Edited by - toubab1020 on 09 Mar 2011 15:37:55 |
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Sister Omega
United Kingdom
2085 Posts |
Posted - 12 Mar 2011 : 17:49:40
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Isn't Gambia great? Better infrastucture more sophisticated business and rising middle classes. It's all happening. Enjoy your stay Turk.
peace
Sister Omega |
Peace
Sister Omega |
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turk
USA
3356 Posts |
Posted - 26 Mar 2011 : 09:38:02
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Bumpstourism
I believe bumpsters are the biggest asset of Gambian tourism. Those who are not talked to, who don’t get any attention, who feel like ignored, invisible, isolated in western world are dying those bumpsters come and talk to them. Those who can’t even talk to their children, sisters, neighbors are dying to be talked when they come to gambia. How exciting for a 55 years old woman is being chased by 20s bumpsters? It is not a disturbance. Are you kidding me? It is a gift.
Anyway…Tourism business is down. Early February was supposed to be high season but it is now late March, there was not much difference for low numbers for tourists.
• Ali Baba Garden, hosting for older European women and their gigolos, was busy. Ali Baba still has boring reggae music that serves rastas, rasta-wanna-bes and their lovers.
• Bukaraboo (my favorite spot due to Belgium beer) with older expat European men and migrant sex workers from mainly Sierra Leone, Guinea, Guinea Bissau, Liberia and Gambian girl friends of these men who are mostly retired, businessmen or tourists was busy. Bukaraboo had live bands. By the time towards March, I knew what the next track was after each song bands were playing.
• Choosan had the best music and entertainment; I was there every night until 2-3am, enjoying Senegalese music and some African bands from other west african countries. Saturday nights they had multiple bands. The crowd was usually, wealthy Gambians, and real African cultures lovers.
• Queen Mother was busy because they have better food.
• Other restaurants were sometime full, sometime not.
• I also enjoyed drum-African dance show every night in Wild Monkey. I rate the entertainment there as top. The food in Wild Monkey was worse. But my daughter loved their barracuda.
• Basically our night start at Wild Monkey for drum-dance show, then I go to Bukaraboo for drinks and meet my expat friends. Come back to Choosan for live band. Finally, if I have enough energy and friends, I end up in Wow club.
• Aquarius was good but mostly Lebanese and wealthier African-Gambian and Lebanese-Gambian. I did not realize until this trip how much mixed Lebanese and African Gambian in Gambia. Many Lebanese speak the local languages mostly wolof and some mandinka.
• Duplex, nice building, but empty mostly nights except Saturday nights. I noticed many Gambians in Duplex club are now following the trend of North American party-goers. They like to impress with the-out-fits, bling-blings, cars and they just stand around the stage and do not dance.
• La-diva was closed. Jokor was empty. Milly’s was half empty at their busiest night.
Beaches were empty. Weekdays, due to checkpoint, many Gambians can’t go to beaches. Those who make would be question by the police/soldiers how they ended up there. I did not see why they have this restriction. Weekends they allow Gambians when many tourists love to be on the beach hanging out with the locals.
I enjoyed my time in Lamin Lodge with nice oyster. They have wood-made restaurant, it is nice to see it. Monkey was nice visiting my old friends in the park. They seem to recognize me.
Highlight of my trip were visiting Jinnack Island and my trip to Basse. There is some improvement on the road to Basse but it was still bad. I enjoyed my stops along the Gambian river and seeing real Gambia which was not corrupted by capitalism/tourism was a true authentic experience. Visiting the villages in remote area was excellent and it was something I recommend everyone going to the Gambia.
Race and Culture Wars
I noticed, particularly Jolas are more into their African culture and animist traditions. It was great to experience their amazing dances, some animist practices and listen to this half Lebanese half Jola guy who turned to a passionate Marabou advocate.
In Gambia, there are many cultural influences.
• Islam is still biggest influence in Gambian society. Not so much radical, but moderate and relax Muslims are the greatest strength of Gambian society. They are more focused group of people. I am surprised why it did not turn to a political force like the one in Turkey. Conservative Gambians have significant wealth and their social/intellectual dominance is very visible.
• There are more professionals and middle class in Gambia becoming more radical secular. They are more critical on Islam and actually I found some of them to be very radical.
• Animism and African traditional religions are still very visible even within Conservative Muslims. I see little similarity between Gambians and Turkish. Turks were shaman previously before they accepted the religion of Islam and they kind of mixed some of previous belief with their new religion. Same in Gambia. While following religion of Islam, they still heavy animist influence in their spiritual life.
• The youth is different though. Many of them are influenced under pop culture. Not only ugly hip-hop, gang-bling-bling culture, but also black-eye-peas generation also very common within youth. Those who have high school drop outs, high school students, college students who have internet access now love pop culture more than ever. I think this will be second coming of reggae-dancehall influence for Gambians. It is pretty pretend to be/act like they are Jamaican dancehall crowd.
• There is significant Rasta influence in Gambian society, especially young male. But it is not like philosophical Rastafarianism, it is more like life style, actibg-up and music.
• I found those who are influenced by dance-hall and hip-hop very aggressive towards tourists. There are increased tense towards toubabs and Lebanese than before. The youth in senegambia is more assertive, rude and aggressive now.
• Many Gambians do not like Lebanese people. Some of the attitude would be considered to be racist. Some Lebanese are not any different towards African-Gambians either.
• There is a definitely increasing criticism towards Lebanese and Indians. And Lebanese are getting more visible, wealthier and powerful; it looks like African Gambians display their displeasure about the situation more. Many of these Lebanese speak the local language, there are more mixed African-Lebanese, one would expect the opposite trend for better relationship as Lebanese are more integrated part of the society than Indians.
• Some Lebanese and Indian do not like Gambians either. The feeling is mutual, both Lebanese/Indians and Africans have some tensed relationship.
• Many Gambians just don’t like Lebanese/Indians because simply they are very successful in business. Most of them claim that Lebanese/Indians take the money out of the country. I am not sure if that is the case as I felt like many of these seem like they accept Gambia as their home.
• Lebanese/Indians are very critical on Gambian’s work ethic. Most problems are coming out of business/employment relationships. They think Gambians have poor work ethic, human capital and they are lazy. Some of the criticism about African could be considered as ‘racist’ in many countries. Lebanese people do not trust their African employees as they charge them they steal money. African workers do not like their bosses and they think Lebanese are robbing their country. It felt like historically Europe and Turkey, when local people thinking successful and wealthy Jews are robbing their countries.
• Work ethic. This is not a generalization and there are now more middle class, educated intellectual Africans are wealthier and more successful in society, but I do share the observation that many Africans do not understand how the ‘capitalist world, business world we have in west’. My observation is that many Gambians have poor work ethics. Many are not productive, they do not have skills business requires i.e. punctuality, productivity, efficiency.
• I have a few friends/expats have business i.e. restaurants, construction, hotel. I had observation that many Gambians who work do not understand what is required to be successful at work. Their standards are very low. They gave the minimum efforts possible. They do not have the perspective of ‘I do my best to impress the client’. My understanding is that Africa still did not have the same historical process of ‘capitalism’ unlike Middle East, West and Far East.
Seller: Hey.
Turk: Yes.
Seller: Come see my stuff
Turk: What are you selling? I am not interested in buying.
Seller: Djembe
Turk: I am not interested in buying today. But I like your stuff.
Seller: Come on, I did not have business for last two days. Help me.
This is the attitude; I think what is fundamentally wrong. The seller is not doing business. I mean he has amazing drums and I actually purchased one (at 1200 dalasi, good price). What is wrong in this dialog is that he does not believe in the products, he has more like a beggar mentality.
Taxi Driver: You need a taxi.
Turk: Yes
Taxi Driver: Come.
Turk: To Palma. How much?
Taxi Driver: Come in, don’t worry.
Turk: How much.
Taxi Driver: 75 Dalasi
Turk: You are a thief.
Taxi Driver: No man. How much you give
Turk: 5 Dalasi
Taxi Driver: lol.
Turk: 25 Dalasi
Taxi Driver: OK, come in.
From Senegambia to Palma-Rima, a taxi costs from 25 to 50 Dalasi. Most drivers are in business to make quick short term business. They do not have the mentality of ‘I make this client happy so he can come back, or I make this client happy so he can recommend me someone else’. This is very similar to Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.
Happy Times
I am always happy being in Gambia. Emotional, social interactions are superb. I think this is the one of the greatest strength of Gambians. Gambians are very positive about their life. I sometimes envy the bumpster who begs me for 10 dalasi after I reject him (And you know how rude I could be), he is still cool after my insult and go away smiling. My personality changes in Africa. Now, I even reject him in funny way.
I love spending time in compounds with the families. It reminds me my childhood in Turkey. It is exactly same social closeness, friendliness, eating from the same plate.
Turk: Who is this?
Gambian: Oh, she is my sister?
Turk: Same mother, same father?
Gambian: No no.
Turk: Same father, different uncle?
Gambian: lol
Turk: How long do we have to wait for the driver?
Gambian: Soon.
Turk: How soon?
Gambian: Before noon.
Turk: Before noon? When, what time
Gambian: Why worry, he will come.
Turk: When will he come?
Gambian: I told you before… noon.
Turk: Before noon what time? Remember….
Gambian: After 10…
Turk: Did you set up time?
Gambian: Yeah, before noon…
Turk: You said after 10…
Gambian: Yes…
Turk: After 10 before noon, that is two hours…
Gambian: Yes..
Turk: Did you set up time, arrange time?
Gambian: Yes
Turk: What time did you say?
Gambian: I said come after 10. He will come, he is ma brother.
Turk: Different mother, different father?
Gambian: what?
Turk: lol
Gambian: lol.
So, yes if you judge this guy with the western standards. I mean I am talking about ‘come pick me up at sharp 10:45’, it will not work. Things are very different in Gambia. Maybe, that is why I like being in Gambia.
There are something you can compare between Africa and West, for example, child mortality rate. It is too high in Africa and too low for West. But there are things very difficult to compare. If I make 50,000 Dollars per year, I would be willing to work for 30,000 Dollars per year in Gambia. Is Gambia cheaper? No? It is just better life condition in terms of ‘happiness’. I mean that is for me. That could be different for others.
I met a German couple in Gambia who is running for business. They had a son, who is going to a Gambian School. I am comparing to German schools vs Gambian Schools. There is no comparison in terms of quality of education. Gambian schools are just too bad. It is below standards. So I asked if they have concern about that. They said, of course they have concern about it. Who would not? My daughter is almost 4 years old more advance than many 5, 6, 7 years old Gambian students academically. She has better nutrition, she has better health care, and she has better educational opportunities. Western kids get smarter because of all these things. She uses computer, she calls me via skype. I am not sure if she has the advantage socially and emotionally though. I see Gambians kids, they have a smile differently. I get candies for kids. I see these kids are lining up, with so much excitement, ambition… smiling so happy. I don’t see that on my daughter. It takes much more to make her smile. I can see Gambian kids have better social and emotional development. I can see our kids living in west sometime overwhelmed with the information they have, competition, structured, modern, capitalist, consumption based life style. And they are spoiled too much. They became more individual, competitive, smarter, clever, and intellectual and many skills but I am not sure if they have the same emotional and social skills. I am not sure if they are happy.
Development
There is definitely, economic dynamism, infrastructure improvements, growing economy, bigger middle class, and more sophisticated business. But I think what is missing is that infrastructure improvement is much faster than human capital development. Current regime does not focus on education, intellectual, social, cultural advancement.
Education is still expensive. One still has to pay 2500 dalasi for high school. This is too much for many families. They can’t afford many kids in the family. Women is still behind, there must be more focus on women.
Many Gambian families are run by women, not men. Women still have less than 30 percent literacy rates; those who are literate don’t have much intellectual ability to be active part of social and economic life in Gambia.
Government
While it is getting better, the government is still not efficient. The skill set, human capital situation are not that good. Corruption is everywhere. It is not SHAME. Gambian people do not see corruption as a shame and crime; rather they see it as an legitimate opportunity. It is not unusual for security officers are being picky when it comes to non-gambians for corruption.
There are two reasons for that. One is money and some even have racist motivation.
Police: Can I see you passport?
Turk: I have the copy of my passport?
Police: Why don’t you carry the original?
Turk: Like everyone else, I have concern about losing it when I am going to beach. Gambians do not carry their ID either.
Police: Do you have valid visa?
Turk: Yes.
Police: Can I see the visa stamp?
Turk: Yes.
Police: Where do you live?
Turk: Senegambia
Police: Can I see your original passport?>
Turk: Yeah, you need to come to my place.
Police: OK, let us go.
Turk: OK.
Police: Can you get a taxi?
Turk: Why do I have to get taxi? Don’t you have any vehicle?
Police: If we go by taxi you don’t have to wait.
Turk: I don’t want to pay to taxi 100 dalasi!
Police: Well, just wait here.
Turk: OK I wait, what about them?
Police: Who?
Turk: Them, the girl and little girl?
Police: Who are they? They are under age?
Turk: Yes, one is 16 other 4.
Police: Do they have ID?
Turk: No
Police: Do you know them
Turk: Yes
Police: Who are they?
Turk: One of them is my daughter
Police: Which one?
Turk: The one 4 years old
Police: Oh, ok. We will let you go.
Turk: OK
This kind of things happens all the time. This particular situation, the police is testing me. He wants the opportunity to make 100 dalasi. Once they know you and they let you alone, but they like to prey on tourists who scared. It is not only tourists. I was talking to these prostitutes on the beach. I asked them how they are treated. They said, they are treated very badly. Some reported that they have to be sexually abused by officials in order to enter the Senegambia where they can look for wealth European men.
Politics
Turk: How is your president?
Gambian: He is very good?
Turk: Why?
Gambian: He works hard
Turk: Do you have a job?
Gambian: No
Turk: So why do you like this government?
Gambian: We are poor?
Turk: Maybe another president do better?
Gambian: No I like Jammeh?
Turk: How about Darboe?
Gambian: Who?
Turk: Opposition leader?
Gambian: I don’t know about him much?
Turk: Who else do you know?
Gambian: Our president is hard worker
And what is going on in North Africa?
Gambian: I like Kaddafi
Turk: Why
Gambian: He is a good man
Turk: Why?
Gambian: That is *****ic France attacked them.
Turk: Why?
Gambian: They just want to get the oil like Saddam
Turk: But its people do not want him
Gambian: No it is all lie. Media propaganda.
I do not think something like Egypt, Tunisia would happen in Gambia. First of all, Jammeh is overwhelmingly supported. There are elections, there are newspapers are being sold. Opposition are talking, they can even insult the president. The point newspaper and sallah’s newspaper are being sold. They are lots of criticism for the current regime. But by very few people.
Only very little percentage of people are interested in politics. Those who are interested in may support the opposition. These people are mostly educated, wealthier middle class. But considering majority of Gambians are not educated, poor and mostly illiterate, they are not equipped, motivated for political stands.
They are probably more interested in attaya rather than going for Egypt type of revolution.
Youth are busy with getting older wealthier Gambian men, or toubab. There are lots of sugar daddies. It is even more massive than Gambian girls going out with toubabs. They are so much into consumption, pop culture they are not interested in politics.
I remember when I was university or in many countries, usually youth are always more idealistic, student protests are the engine for any social activism. Gambia does not have that. Gambian youth are not aware of the concepts like ‘pro-environment’, ‘human rights’, ‘more democracy’ that much. It is not a politicized as much.
One of the disadvantage for Gambian for such activism, there are no strong unions, professional associations. That is because, Gambia did not have the transition like other part of the world of industrialization. So, they don’t have students, youth, unions which are usually front fighters for activism we see in north Africa. Imagine, my estimate only 20 percent of women have educated capability to understand political concepts, I do not see anything like Egypt is happening anytime soon in Gambia.
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diaspora! Too many Chiefs and Very Few Indians.
Halifa Salah: PDOIS is however realistic. It is fully aware that the Gambian voters are yet to reach a level of political consciousness that they rely on to vote on the basis of Principles, policies and programmes and practices. |
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